Hebridean Way Day 5 – Tarbert to Callanish
Yesterday, Hebridean Way Day 4 followed a recurring theme for this tour – challenging cycling through ever-changing fantastic rugged scenery. For Hebridean Day 5 our journey to Callanish would continue in the same vein but we would be cycling further than on previous days. It would also include the main hill of the tour.
As per usual, it all started calmly enough as we rejoined the A859 and followed the coastline.
Our route took us past Loch Bun Abhainn Eadarra.
Just a few miles into our ride the hill came into view. It would take us up through the valley between Monan, Tarsabhal and Sgaoth Iosal.
The first section of the climb was the steepest.
With Mike struggling, we took it in stages.
Of course, when we looked back, the view was fantastic.
We kept on climbing.
Along the way, we looked down on Loch Mharaig. To one side of it is one of the most remote hamlets in the UK.
Eventually, we reached the top … and took a breather.
On our descent, we crossed into the final island on our tour – the Isle of Lewis. Technically, it is one large island, the island of Harris and Lewis, with Harris covering the southern third and Lewis the northern two-thirds. It is unknown what brought about the distinction and exactly why they are referred to as separate islands. Some refer to clan disputes while others simply point to the geography.
Anyway, we were now cycling on the Isle of Lewis.
Continuing on our journey we came across the Bonnie Prince Charlie Monument. Apparently, he landed here in 1746 while on the run, just a few weeks after the Battle of Culloden.
And a little further on, just before Balallan, we passed another monument. This one being the Pairc Raiders Monument. This was built in 1997 and dedicated to the the local crofters who, in 1887, fought their landlords who wanted to turn the land over to sheep and deer parks. It is one of three.
At Balallan, we found the Kinloch Historical Society Community Hub. They had a cafe, so we made use of their services. We were fortunate, for they were preparing for a local group meal, but they let us order some food too. A couple of groups of cyclists who arrived after us were not so lucky.
Refreshed with some food in our bellies we continued on our route.
When we reached Lurbost we took a left turn into the A858 and towards Callanish.
In a way the sidewinds we were now presented with made for even more challenging cycling.
We came across the Deanston 8 Cairn representing the eight crofters from Uig who built houses at Sir James Matheson’s land reclamation scheme in 1850. Sadly the settlement failed and they left after a year.
At Garrynahine, we took a moment to look around an interesting war memorial.
A little further on we had our first sighting in the distance of some Callanish Standing Stones. Actually, aside from the main site, there numerous other ritual sites within a few kilometres. These include at least three other circles, several arcs, alignments and single stones.
The most famous set of standing stones is Calanais I. We decided to seek out the visitor centre.
It is certainly an impressive site.
They are cross-shaped set of stones erected 5,000 years ago, and were an important place for ritual activity for at least 2,000 years. While no-one knows why the standing stones at Calanais were erected, one theory is it was a kind of astronomical observatory. There are, as you might expect, many other theories.
Upon leaving the standing stones, Andy S wanted to take a shortcut. Of course, this just happened to be up a stonking hill. Thankfully, a little further on we arrived at Gealabhat Callanish B&B, where we were staying for the evening.
Later, we went for a little walk and had another look at the Calanais I standing stones. At dusk, they displayed a whole new mystery.
You can view our Hebridean Way Day 5 route from Tarbert to Callanish below: